Mold Remediation in Murfreesboro, TN

“Black mold” usually means Stachybotrys, which grows on material that has stayed wet for a long time, such as drywall behind a slow leak. But color doesn’t tell you the species, and many common molds are dark. Whatever the type, mold growing indoors should be removed and the moisture fixed; the approach is the same.

Crawl spaces. Humid outside air and damp soil make crawl spaces the most common spot. Growth on joists and subfloor is usually noticed first as an odor in the rooms above. Long-term, the fix is a sealed, dehumidified crawl space.

Basements. Water seeping through walls and floors keeps carpet, drywall and stored boxes damp. Stopping the water comes before rebuilding.

Attics. Bathroom fans vented into the attic, roof leaks and poor ventilation leave mold on roof sheathing, often found only when a roof is replaced.

After water damage. Leaks that weren’t dried properly are the classic cause. If you’ve just had a leak, drying it out fast is the best mold prevention there is.

1. STEP 1Find the moistureMoisture meter and thermal camera to find what’s feeding the mold and how far the growth goes.
2. STEP 2Contain the areaPlastic sheeting and negative air pressure keep spores from spreading to clean rooms while work is done.
3. STEP 3Filter and removeHEPA air scrubbers run throughout. Moldy drywall, insulation and carpet are bagged and removed; wood is cleaned or sanded.
4. STEP 4Clean, dry and confirmHEPA vacuuming and cleaning of what stays, drying to normal readings, and a visual check before anything is rebuilt.

Surface mildew or a small patch of mold on a hard surface, like a bathroom tile corner or a window sill, can usually be cleaned with detergent and water while wearing gloves and an N95 mask. The EPA’s mold guidance treats areas under about 10 square feet as something a homeowner can often handle.

Leave it to a remediation crew when the growth is larger than that, when it’s inside walls or in HVAC ducts, when it came from sewage or flood water, or when anyone in the house has asthma or a weakened immune system. Don’t spray bleach on drywall or wood: it doesn’t reach the roots in porous material and adds moisture.

When the musty smell gets stronger every time the air kicks on, look at the air handler, the drain pan and the ducts, especially ducts running through a damp crawl space or attic. Condensation on cold ducts in humid air is a common source. Cleaning the coil and pan, fixing the drain and sealing or insulating sweating ducts is part of the job; otherwise the system spreads spores through every room.

Porous materials with mold growing in them, like drywall, ceiling tiles, insulation and carpet pad, are cut out and bagged inside the containment. Semi-porous materials like framing lumber and subfloor are cleaned, HEPA vacuumed and sanded where growth has stained the surface. Hard surfaces such as metal, glass and tile are cleaned and kept. The aim is physical removal; spraying a chemical over mold and leaving it in place is not remediation.

• Keep indoor humidity under about 50 to 60 percent; a cheap hygrometer tells you where you are.
• Run bathroom fans during and after showers, vented outside, not into the attic.
• Fix leaks and dry wet materials within 24 to 48 hours.
• Keep gutters clear and soil sloped away from the house.
• Check the crawl space or basement once a season for water or a musty smell.